One month in Baku

This past month has been full of unexpected occasions, yet expected learning about a new culture that I new little about, the Azerbaijani culture. I have had multiple experiences that I’ve needed/wanted to write down. Unfortunately, time, limited Internet, and the Blog that doesn’t want to work on that Internet have all minimized my writing.

Pictures at dusk on a drizzly Sunday Tail Light Christmas Tree
Notice the interesting traffic patterns (Clue: There aren't any)

Two Mosques visible from my apartment

One of many more stories (to be written):
My third weekend I was told on a Friday afternoon that I was having lunch the next day and that I would be picked up downtown where I would be on a tour with students learning about some of the history of the city. I learned quickly enough that there is no fair warning of anything much here. This example was prime. I had just learned of the tour with the students earlier that day and now I was going to lunch. That information was all I was left with. The next morning, I decided that although I would be walking for 3 ½ hours, I had no idea what the lunch was, so I better dress a little better than my Saturday city tour dress.

While I was on the tour, I learned from the professor from Italy that apparently the two of us would be having lunch with the Ambassador, which one neither of us knew for sure. Although, he had a name he’d been trying to practice so he could greet him. We about determined that he was probably the Azeri Ambassador, but to where, we didn’t know. The tour was fascinating. The tour guide is Azeri and lives in Canada, but was here for a number of months. He introduced himself by saying that he was neither a historian nor a tour guide. If any other historian or tour guide could have that much passion, he would be a hot commodity anywhere. This tall Azeri had dug so deep into the history of every building in about a 4-block radius that I couldn’t have imagined a more thorough knowledge by any other living person. He carried a large accordion file with picture from the last 200 years. The pictures were of buildings that were there prior to Soviet occupation or of the buildings that still stood from past times. For example there is an old famous (in Azeri circles) novel that is a true story that took place in the area, entitled Ali and Nino, and he showed us the schools or what were the schools that Ali and Nino went to. The pictures also included photos of families or people, especially old oil barons. We saw many of the houses or palaces that they lived in from the outside, including many old smaller run down places that included many people during harder times. Thus, Fuad had found the descendents of these people wherever they were spread throughout Europe, Russia, and Azerbaijan or as far-flung as they had ended up due to wars, occupations, or other causes of dispersions. The descendents all provided him with pictures of their ancestors and of the homes, churches that had been torn down, schools, and other buildings. The three hours was seriously amazing. Luckily, I am to have another tour with him within the Old City walls (Ichirishahar) with a different group of students. I have been here a month and have yet to actually tour any of these buildings that are the tourist attractions of Baku.

Old City Tour to come

Luigi and I were picked up back at where we began the tour and stuffed into separate cars that belong to the school; complete with our drivers we have for the school. I drove about a half hour out of the city to Retro, a fancy newer resort that I believe was begun by the Ambassador himself. I rode in the car with an Azerbaijani co-worker who is the director of one of the programs. Most of the conversation on the way ended up being questions and answers about the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints. He told me he is not atheist, but not religious, and that he was curious what others believed. I answered questions and described much of the doctrine when asked. He was quite impressed that I would have given up a year-and-a-half of my life to be a missionary, who wasn’t making any money, but being supported, by my own savings, my family, and other members of the church. He was amazed that someone could have that much passion about a religion to volunteer to tell people about it. It was a great conversation.
At the resort, we were treated to a feast over a couple of hours. I was very confused about the identity of the Ambassador and never really cleared up my confusion until the following week at the office with another colleague. I thought I had met him my first day at the school when I first walked in and that he had been introduced as the Rector, but I had been a bit dazed and confused that first day with my jet lag. In any case, during the feast he was the Ambassador, I was still unsure about who he was an Ambassador for or to, but guessed that he was the Ambassador to the U.S. based on much of the conversation. Many of the other foreign staff members were also in attendance at the feast. Much of the conversation was about political topics, which is expected when I work for the Azerbaijan Diplomatic Academy. However, much of the conversation was about religion. Somehow it usually turns to that here, I’m finding. The group consisted of many religions (LDS, Muslim, Hindi, non-believing Italian Catholic, and others, I believe) and many who were not religious. The meal with at least 7 or 8 courses was fabulous. After each course, my plate was cleared and a new plate and utensils appeared with the constant whisking around of the wait staff. It was fascinating and I felt like I was being treated like a princess. I think that we must have dirtied at least 100 plates and 300 utensils during the course of that meal. In any case, the most interesting part that I wanted to recount came during tea at the end. I had already refused wine and all other like substances that they nearly poured into my glasses several times. Then, tea somehow became more difficult. I refused the first waitress who came along with tea and confused her completely. The Ambassador noticed and asked why I wouldn’t drink tea. He said, “you are in Azerbaijan; you must drink tea.” I just sort-of smiled and didn’t others around me shifted uncomfortably, because some had already discovered that I don’t drink tea on previous occasions. Luckily, the conversation moved on and I thought it had passed. Then, a ninja waiter who noticed I didn’t have one mysteriously placed another cup in front of me. The Ambassador spoke up and said, “there, now you have the choice again, to drink or not.” He waited and watched while I said something about not drinking tea and his wife asked if I’d rather have coffee, which I also refused. Everyone sat watching me to see what I would do as the Ambassador seemed to be expecting me to make the choice and I just left the tea in front of me and looked on. The Vice Rector sitting beside me, knowing my beliefs, relieved me by taking the cup and saying, “here, I’ll drink that.” That settled it, and the conversation carried on. I didn’t know how much I was offending, and hoped I wasn’t, but the Vice Rector saved me as far as I could tell.
The ride home was with the Italian and the other American who also asked me all about the Church. Actually, the American already knew a lot because she is the admissions director and had been a recruiter at a university in Pennsylvania, where she did a bit of recruiting at BYU. Thus, she had done her research on the LDS culture. However, the Italian professor had many misconceptions and had a very negative idea of the Church and was not afraid of expressing it. I again answered many questions and basically provided the history and the entire basis of our beliefs and the doctrine throughout the entirety of the drive home. It was not well received by Luigi, but Janice was generally interested and much more receptive.
I believe I mentioned in my original Baku Blog that it is against the law to proselyte or to preach about religion here. However, I can answer questions when asked. Prior to that day and since, I find that I am asked about the LDS Church and my beliefs two to three times a day, mostly at work. I am glad that I am allowed to openly answer questions and that many are impressed by much of what we believe, especially the importance we place on the family. Families are very important in the Azerbaijani culture. Also, many are surprised constantly by the practices pertaining to the Word of Wisdom and the Sabbath Day. I have several who watch out for me when it comes to both. For example, I have had meetings cancelled on Sunday by the Vice Rector because he knows I go to church and that I don’t work on Sundays, or I have had other colleagues who will tell me not to eat something because it has coffee or something in it. It is nice that they recognize that I actually do not only believe these things, but that I try to live them too and they genuinely want to help me to. It is impressive as most are Muslim, but not practicing or religious.